Top 7 Affordable Alternatives to the Rolex Submariner (Part 2)

In PART 2 we continue our search for the best Rolex Submariner alternatives but this time all for less than $600. Why would someone want an alternative at this price? Maybe you like the look of the Submariner but don't want or cannot afford to spend the $10,000 or more to get it. Or maybe you want to test a dive watch similar in size and design to see if you really want one. At this price point, these options make great daily wear watches or even beater watches but still look amazing and will remind you of the Sub every time you look at your wrist. Finally, there are some of us who just plain enjoy the feeling of superiority knowing we have an equally good watch that cost just a fraction of the price of the luxury good.

Part 1 covers Rolex Submariner alternatives over $600.

No doubt the Rolex Submariner is an iconic and prestigious watch that has recently skyrocketed in price and in many places has become extremely hard to find. The Rolex Submariner set the standard for what we today call a dive watch. Its extremely waterproof Oystersteel 41mm case and solid bracelet along with ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel have come to define the modern dive watch. Amazing lume and a fuss-free dial that makes telling the time easy are also hallmarks of the modern Sub.

At the under $600 price point, while you won't get the prestige of the Rolex brand, you can still get a solid and luxurious feeling watch that is accurate, stylish, and in some cases will cause heads to turn. So read on and see what is available. Let's start with a Swiss-made watch that just falls under our price limit.

Squale 1545 ORIG

Outside of dive nerds, most people don't know the important role the company Squale played in the development of the modern dive watch. In 1948 the founder of Squale, Charles Von Buren, began making watches in Switzerland. Von Buren was an early enthusiast of the growing world of sport diving. By 1959, Squale (which comes from the word "shark" in Italian) was building legitimate dive watches as well as supplying cases for Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms.

Squale dive watches were used by the elite parachutists of Italy's Folgore Brigade as well as the Italian Navy's Diving Corps. The 1545 collection are 200m water resistant watches made from 316L stainless steel and aimed at recreational divers. The surfaces of the case sides are polished which contrasts with the brushed finish on the top and bottom. And waterproof cases are Squale's expertise. They made the original 101ATMOS which was the first 1,000 meter dive watch.

The case is 40mm in diameter and 13mm thick. The domed sapphire crystal is vintage inspired but thankfully scratch resistant. The 120 click ceramic timing bezel perfectly aligns with the indices.

Squale uses the proven ETA 2814-2 to power this watch. This movement offers hand winding and hacking. It drives a classic sword shaped handset along with date display at the 3 o'clock position. The hands and indices are illuminated using Super Lumi-Nova.

The milled clasp is nicely done with screw pins and includes a diver's extension. You get all of this goodness at an affordable MSRP of $595. That is a huge value for a Swiss made watch with a solid horological history.

Bottom Line

If you wear a Rolex to be noticed, you choose a Squale to start a conversation. The Squale with its lesser known but illustrious military and dive history is a great conversation starter. It has excellent wrist presence, and if you own one, you'll want to become an expert in the early history of sports diving, which will only make you appreciate this amazing timepiece even more.

Glycine Combat Sub

Founded in 1914, Swiss watch manufacturer, Glycine has a long history in making military watches. Its famed Airman line was popular among pilots in the U.S. Air Force during Vietnam and was even worn during the Gemini 5 spaceflight. But in the dive world, the Combat Sub which debuted in 1967 is legendary.

There are many different models of the Combat Sub, but one of the more popular is the 42.2mm by 10.5mm version. Note that the Combat Sub is extremely thin. The case is very smooth and straight-sided and does not feel or appear bulky. The Glycine Combat Sub’s case also has down-swept lugs which makes the watch wear even smaller than it looks.

The aluminum bezel is a 60 click version instead of the more standard 120 click. One advantage is that each click equals one minute which makes the bezel very easy to set. The bezel sports a coin-edge rim with solid and audible clicks with no back play. One feature of the bezel is the raised nub at 12 o'clock which gives your finger something to grab on to making turning easy.

The Combat Sub uses the Sellita SW200-1 which Glycine renamed GL224. This gives a 28,800 beats per hour sweep of the second hand along with a 38 hour power reserve. Hacking and hand winding are standard.

The dial comes in various forms including Arabic numerals, indices only, and a combination which Glycine called "vintage." Most Combat Subs also include an inner ring with 24 hour markers which trace back to its military origins. You can find Combat Subs ranging from $400 to $600 depending on the model.

Bottom Line

The Rolex Sub established its bonafides as the first commercial dive watch. But the Glycine Combat Sub has an equally proud heritage. Glycine offers a compelling horological story and their Combat Subs have been real world tested in some of the most harsh conditions. For the price, it would be hard to find a better alternative with this history of performance.

Seiko Prospex SRPD

One of the oldest and most prestigious watch makers in the world is Seiko. Outside of Switzerland, Seiko put Japan on the map and is rapidly expanding into the ultra luxury market with their Grand Seiko line. But Seiko is also known for making high quality tool watches at a reasonable price. The Seiko SKX007 was the standard Sub alternative until it was discontinued a few years ago. Its replacement is now here in the form of the modernized SRPD line with upgraded movement.

The SRPD comes in a variety of styles and colors and while the model numbers are uninspiring, enthusiasts have coined nicknames for the more popular models such as the SRPB53 more commonly known as the "Samurai" with Pepsi Bezel. Or the SRPB61 known as the "Samurai" Hulk.

Seiko is known for solid finishing and the SRPDs are no exception. They come in at 42.5mm in diameter by 13.4mm thick. The watch is nicely brush finished and has a water resistance rating of 200m.

The hands and dial are painted with Seiko's proprietary Lumibrite which is famous for its brightness. The one concession to price is that the crystal is Hardlex which is a synthetic material that is not as scratch resistant as sapphire. The bezel is an aluminum 120 click dive timer.

Powering the watch is Seiko's in-house 4R36 movement which offers a smooth 21,600 beats per hour and 41 hour power reserve. This movement is an improvement over previous models (such as the SKX007) and has been praised for its accuracy and reliability. It also offers both hacking and hand winding, which is something that was missing in the older SKX007.

Bottom Line

Seiko as a brand is just as well known as Rolex. Unfortunately, it is more for value and reliability than luxury. But as Seiko moves upscale, it will undoubtedly begin to be seen as more of a premium manufacturer, and the prices will also reflect this move. Currently, the $200 to $350 that Seiko charges makes the SRPD line hard to beat. This is a watch that simply looks good, has its own style and comes from a recognized and quality maker. What else could you ask for?

Stuhrling Original DepthMaster 883

Started in the U.S. in 1999, this micro brand focuses on making high quality watches at affordable prices. One way it does so is by unique Swiss made movements with cases made and assembled in Hong Kong. If there is one thing Hong Kong is known for, it is quality work with stainless steel.

The DepthMaster features a 42mm case of brushed and polished 316L surgical grade stainless steel. It comes in at 14.4mm thick and includes a stainless steel coin edge unidirectional bezel.

The dial comes in different colors including a deep blue with a sunburst effect. The indices are a triangle at 12 o'clock and a mix of rectangular and circular markings with a date window at 3 o'clock. The hands are Rolex like with a Mercedes design on the hour hand and a lume filled triangle on the second hand. There are subtle crown guards that don't extend too far, which would hinder the operation of the crown. The screw down crown helps to give the watch a 200m of water resistance rating and there is even an exhibition back so you a view the movement.

So where does the DepthMaster save money? In two areas: the crystal and the movement. The crystal is called "Krysterna" which is a synthetic and not as scratch resistant as sapphire. It is probably on par with most mineral crystals such as Seiko's Hardlex. The other area is in the movement. On the face, the words "Swiss Automatic Movement" are boldly displayed. The movement is a Claro 888 which is a Chinese ST16 that is sent to Switzerland and assembled using some Swiss parts and labor. By law if more than 50 percent of the value of the movement is Swiss, then it can be called Swiss made. But don't let this stop you as the ST16 is a very solid design used in the popular Seagull line of watches. The fact that it is assembled in Switzerland and uses Swiss-made parts is probably why the DepthMaster has earned a reputation of being accurate and reliable.

The bracelet is also of good quality and includes a push button and fold over clasp. The real value of the watch is the price which carries an MSRP of $265.

Bottom Line

The strength of the Stuhrling DepthMaster is the beauty of the dial and handsome handset that is clearly inspired by but not a copy of the Rolex Submariner. As with any micro brand you are purchasing from a smaller company, I highly recommend that you buy from a returnable source. Just in case there is a problem, you want to be able to easily exchange it. But for the price and what you get, the DepthMaster stands out as offering excellent value.

Phoibos WaveMaster PY010

This Hong Kong based micro brand was started in 2018 and quickly gained a cult-like following for their highly functional tool watches. The word "Phoibos" comes from ancient Greek Mythology and is the other name of the God of light and sun who is best known to us as Apollo.

The WaveMaster is a solid watch with a retro/modern look. It is a heavy and substantial watch made of high quality stainless steel. The case comes in at 40mm in diameter by 13.5mm thick.

The ceramic bezel is unidirectional with a nice coin edge and positive click engagement. The bezel is also fully lumed with BGW9. The night lume shots are simply amazing. So much so that it makes the WaveMaster look like a totally different watch.

The dial is what makes the watch stand out with the wave pattern. Very appropriate for a dive watch. Different dial colors are available. And no review is complete without mentioning the Octopus logo. If the Rolex Sub trades on its association with James Bond, the WaveMaster logo recalls the symbol of Bond's arch rival Spectre.

The dial is clean with the orange second hand standing out. The date is in the 6 o'clock position which keeps it nicely out of the way. The dial is topped with scratch resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

The bracelet is an engineer style with solid end links and a milled clasp. It does not taper, matching the size of the WaveMaster. Powering the watch is a Seiko NH35A movement. This is a true workhorse of many micro brands and has proven both accurate and reliable. The movement beats at 21,600 bph and offers a solid 40 hour power reserve.

Bottom Line

The WaveMaster is an unabashedly heavy and substantial watch. Someone with smaller wrists may want to select something a little thinner. However, if you can wear a bold piece, the WaveMaster would be an excellent choice. Phoibos also has a service center in the United States (and one coming to Europe) along with a two-year warranty. The Phoibos has built a reputation for quality and at $280 it would make a great choice as the perfect anti-Bond Rolex Sub.

Orient RAY II and Mako II

Since 1950, Orient Watches has been manufacturing high quality watches in Japan including the world's thinnest automatic wristwatch with a day and date complication in 1967. Even after being acquired by Seiko, all movements are still made in-house in Japan. One interesting fact is that Seiko has been moving to assembling their movements in other parts of Asia while keeping the assembly of watches in Japan. Orient on the other hand has kept all movement production in Japan while transitioning the final assembly of watches to Southeast Asian countries. Personally, I'd prefer an all-Japanese made movement that is then assembled in Malaysia than the other way around.

When it comes to dive watches, Orient has two standouts: the Ray II and the Mako II. The only real difference between the two are the dial markings with the Mako using Arabics at 12, 6 and 9 while the Ray uses rectangular and circular indices. Both have a day and date display in the 3 o'clock position. The dials are brilliant with a sun burst effect and the second hand is also tipped in red and lumed.

Both the Orient Ray II and Mako II are 41mm in diameter and 13mm thick and made of high quality and expertly finished in stainless steel. The case combines high polished sides with a brushed top. The Ray II does have 22mm lugs while the Mako II uses 20mm lugs. Otherwise, both are identical.

Both offer 200m of water resistance and mineral crystals over clean and clutter free dials. The dive bevel is a 120 click unidirectional timer made of aluminum with a soft coin edge. The screw down crown also aids in protecting the watch when diving.

The Ray II and Mako II are powered by Orients in-house Caliber F69 automatic movement which offers both hacking and hand winding. The movement drives the second hand at 21,600 bph with a 40 hour power reserve.

Just one look at the MSRP of $130 to $200 is all you need to see to know that you should get an Orient even if you already have a drawer full of dive watches.

Bottom Line

At the approximately $130 to $200 price point, you will not find a better watch much less one with a true Japan-made movement and backed by a major brand. The bottom line is that Orient offers the best value without the compromises. There is a reason that every watch collector owns at least one Orient watch.

Loreo Water Ghost Series

The Loreo Water Ghost is included to show what less than $80 can get you that is not a fake Rolex Submariner. Loreo is a Chinese company that sells mostly through Aliexpress. But unlike a cheap "fake" Rolex, you are getting a true stainless steel watch with sapphire crystal and solid, automatic movement.

The Loreo case size is similar to the Rolex at 40mm in diameter by 12.8mm thick. The top of the case has circular brushing which transitions to high polish on the side. Polished steel indices are lume filled and the hands resemble the Sub with Mercedes hour hand and a lollipop second hand. The aluminum bezel is 90 clicks and has a tiny bit of play.

The movement is a Chinese made Seagull ST16 which offers a 36 hour power reserve. The quality of these movements vary but are generally considered solid. The Loreo also comes with a display case so you can enjoy looking at this movement. The crown is a screw down which contributes to the watch's 200m of water resistance.

The oyster style bracelet is well made with solid end links although the clasp is press fit. The end links do turn down which helps with the fit, and there are three micro adjustments.

The key if getting a Loreo Water Ghost is to not pay more than $80 for this watch. You can usually find it for between $62 to $75, and there are nearly a dozen colors from which to choose.

Bottom Line

If you are tempted to buy a "fake" Rolex Sub, this would be a much better option. While a close copy, it does offer legitimate parts and does not try to fool anyone with fake markings. The key is again to not pay more than $80. The Loreo would be an excellent watch to test drive to see if maybe a higher priced diver (or even a true Rolex Sub) is the kind of watch you want to purchase.

Conclusion

I hope you've discovered some amazing alternatives to the Rolex Sub at an affordable price. All of these watches offer solid performance and excellent materials and finishes, and some even include legitimate horological history. Every one of these watches does everything that a Rolex Sub can do but at a much more affordable price point. It does make you wonder what you are really getting for the premium you pay for the Rolex name.

If you haven't read Part 1 which covers some truly great alternative to the Rolex Submariner that run over $600, you can do so by clicking here.

So what do you think? Did we miss some good alternatives? Do you have any experience with these watches? Leave your comments below.